Chikankari

It is believed that the word 'chikan' derives from the Persian word 'chikin', which refers to an embroidered fabric. Chikankari, an age-old form of floral embroidery on mostly white cloth, is famous in the city of Lucknow for more than 200 years. Lucknow finds a plethora of mentions historically; in accounts of European travellers, it is referred to as the Constantinople of the East. However, the origins of the craft are contested.

One can find references to chikankari work of Lucknow in the third century BC, where Megasthenes (a Greek traveler) mentions the use of flowered muslins. Another incidence points in a different direction: a traveler halted in his journey and requested a poor peasant in Lucknow for water. Pleased with the hospitality, the traveler passed on the art of chikankari to him, so the peasant could sustain his livelihood.

The most popular origin story is from the Mughal Court of the16th and 17th centuries. Noor Jahan, wife of emperor Jahangir, is said to have introduced this Persian art to India. She was herself known as a talented embroideress who was fond of the craft. Jahangir is also believed to have developed a liking for it, leading him to establish workshops for its promotion. When the Court disintegrated, some artisans settled in Awadh, leading to the growth of chikankari in the area.

Chikankari involves multiple processes, like cutting, stitching, and printing. The most common motifs used are that of flowers and creepers, owing to a strong Persian influence. The former tend to be used throughout the garment, or in corners, and are accompanied with stems and leaves to bring the design to a completion.

This particular chikankari kurta has belonged to the contributor for 6 years.

Contributed By :

Shreya Sharma